INTENSIFYING THE DYEING PROCESS OF SILK FABRICS WITH WATER-SOLUBLE DYES IN THE PRESENCE OF CHITOSAN

ABSTRACT

The results of the study of the effects of textile excipients are striking for the intensification of the processes of dyeing silk fabrics with active dyes. For the first time, a technique has been developed for using chitosan isolated from dead bees Apis Mellifera as an intensifier. It was found that treatment with chitosan leads to an increase in their sorption capacity and the appearance of centers of charge in silk fibers. A certain nature of the bond and the chemical mechanism of action in the fiber-chitosan-dye system, as well as the effect of intensifiers on the degree and amount of fixation of active dyes on the fiber.

AННOТAЦИЯ

Результаты изучения влияния текстильных вспомогательных веществ поражают интенсификацией процессов крашения шелковых тканей активными красителями. Впервые разработана методика использования в качестве интенсификатора хитозана, выделенного из подмора пчел Apis Mellifera. Установлено, что обработка хитозаном приводит к увеличению их сорбционной способности и появлению центров заряда в волокнах шелка. Определенный характер связи и химический механизм действия в системе волокно-хитозан-краситель, а также влияние усилителей на степень и количество фиксации активных красителей на волокне.

Ключeвыe cлoвa: шeлкoвaя ткaнь, aктивныe кpacитeли, кpaшeниe, хитoзaн, cтeпeнь фикcaция.

Keywords: chitosan, silk fabric, reactive dyes, dyeing, fixation degree.

INTRODUCTION

At present, in the world in the field of the textile industry, there is a need to reduce the cost of energy resources and chemical reagents while improving the quality of textile products to ensure its competitiveness in the world market. Therefore, scientific and practical research on improving the process of coloring silk and mixed fabrics based on it with active dyes using organic intensifiers are considered relevant. In turn, the use of chitosan as an intensifier is important to achieve high economic efficiency with a minimum concentration of an expensive dye, as well as an increase in the quality of textile products [1].

The works [2-3] on the use of chitosan to impart crease resistance, anti-shrink and antimicrobial properties to woolen fabrics. Woolen fabrics were treated with solutions containing 3.5% chitosan and 4% citric acid, then the fabric was thermally treated at 90–135°C. The film-forming properties of chitosan are the basis for its use in the textile industry for the preparation of sizing solutions [4], indelible dressings to increase the resistance of the fiber to physical and mechanical influences [5], anti-shrink agents that simultaneously improve the dyeing of fabrics [6].

MATERIALS AND RESEARCH METHODS

The study used chitosan synthesized from dead bees Apis Mellifera in the scientific laboratory of the BuxSU, silk fabric (silk warp) produced at the joint venture Bukhara-China JSC "Bukhara Brilliant Silk", as well as anionic dye "Reactive  blue K". When dyeing, we used chitosan synthesized from dead bees and the process was carried out according to a periodic method.

Active bright blue K was chosen as dyes. Chitosan concentration varied from 0 to 1.5 g/l. A solution of chitosan in acetic acid (2%) was applied to the fabric before dyeing and dried at a temperature of 100-110°C until completely dry.

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

To test the assumption about the interaction of chitosan with the dye, the absorption spectra of solutions of dyes, chitosan, and their mixtures were recorded at pH from 3–11 in the visible and UV regions of the spectrum using a UV-1900 i spectrophotometer (Shimadzu). For the study, a solution of chitosan from dead bees was used. Prepared by dissolving the dry preparation in 2% acetic acid with a concentration of 0.1 g/l, as well as active dyes: active bright blue K with a solution concentration of 0.1 g/l.

Figure 1. a) Absorption spectra of chitosan solutions b) Absorption spectra of solutions of active bright blue K dye. c) Absorption spectra of solutions of mixtures of active bright blue dye K and chitosan

Figure 1 shows that Figure 1.c differs significantly from the additive sum of Figures 1.a and 1.b. There is a sharp increase in optical density at a wavelength of 290-370 nm, which corresponds to the visible region of the spectrum and a large increase in the range of 590-700 nm, i.e. in the ultraviolet part of the spectrum. This indicates that a chemical interaction occurs between the dye and chitosan in solution under these conditions.

Table 1

The effect of chitosan on the degree of fixation and color intensity when dyeing silk fabrics

A 2% solution of acetic acid was used to dissolve chitosan. In this work, a chitosan solution was used to treat tissues before the coloring process. Next, IR spectroscopic studies of the samples were carried out according to the generally accepted method. The infrared spectra of the samples were recorded on a «Jacko 5300» and «IR-Prestige 21»Fourier spectrometer (Shimadzu Corporation, Japan) in the wavenumber range from 400–4000 cm^-

Figure 3. IR Fourier spectra a) dye “Reactive blue K”; b) undyed silk fabric; c) dye-dyed fabric; d) dyed fabric using chitosan

As can be seen in Fig. 3, the OH and NH absorption band is observed in the IR spectrum of chitosan, which is included in the hydrogen bond in the form of an intense wide band in the region of 3600-3100 cm^-1. The absorption spectra of fibroin are characterized by the presence of bands of Amide I (C=O), Amide II (N-H, C-H), Amide III (C-N, N-H bound, CH₃ -C) at 1620 cm^-1, 1228.66 cm^-1, 1514, 12 cm^-1 respectively. Dyeing of a chitosan film with an active dye also leads to an increase in the intensity of the absorption band in the range of 3500–3100 cm" of stretching vibrations and OH groups, and a narrowing of the band is observed, apparently associated with the disappearance of vibrations of the stretching NH₃⁺ groups [7-8].

CONCLUSIONS

It was found that at a concentration of chitosan 1-1.5 g/l, the best indicators of the degree of fixation, penetration of dyes and color intensity are simultaneously provided. The use of chitosan as an intensifier for coloring silk fabrics at the “Bukhara Brilliant silk” enterprise “Bukhara Cotton” made it possible to significantly reduce the amount of active dye by 30% while increasing the quality of textile materials and saving chemical reagents. As a result of the introduction of chitosan obtained from local raw materials, the color of the finished product has improved and the cost has decreased. Dyed silk and cotton-silk fabrics can be used for sewing women's clothing. As a result of using a new composition developed for dyeing fabrics based on chitosan, the economic efficiency amounted to 3,122,500 soums for 2,000 running meters of silk fabrics.

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