ANALYSIS OF THE IMPLEMENTATION OF PATTERN PLACEMENT ON NATIONAL FABRICS

ABSTRACT

 This study focuses on the analysis of pattern placement on national fabrics, exploring its cultural significance and the practical aspects of design implementation. The research identifies key factors influencing the arrangement of patterns, highlighting the role of traditional techniques and modern adaptations. It was determined that the placement of patterns not only serves an aesthetic function but also carries symbolic meanings in various national contexts. The study further examines the impact of pattern placement on fabric functionality, such as durability and ease of use. Through comprehensive analysis, the author justifies the relevance of preserving traditional methods while adapting them to contemporary textile design trends. The findings contribute to a deeper understanding of the intersection between culture, design, and functionality in national fabric production.

АННОТАЦИЯ

Это исследование сосредоточено на анализе размещения орнаментов на национальных тканях, исследуя их культурное значение и практические аспекты реализации дизайна. В ходе исследования выявлены ключевые факторы, влияющие на расположение орнаментов, подчеркивается роль традиционных техник и современных адаптаций. Было установлено, что размещение орнаментов выполняет не только эстетическую функцию, но и несет символическое значение в различных национальных контекстах. Исследование также анализирует влияние размещения орнаментов на функциональность ткани, такую как долговечность и удобство использования. Через всесторонний анализ автор обосновывает актуальность сохранения традиционных методов при их адаптации к современным тенденциям в текстильном дизайне. Результаты исследования способствуют более глубокому пониманию пересечения культуры, дизайна и функциональности в производстве национальных тканей.

Keywords: fabrics, silk fiber fabrics, patterns, layouts, cutting, placement, equipment, atlas, silk, fiber, clothing, seam, fabric.

Ключевые слова: ткани, ткани с шелковыми волокнами, лекала, настилы, раскройка, размещение, оборудование, атлас, шёлк, волокно, одежда, шов, ткань.

Introduction. In Uzbekistan, silk fiber fabrics are produced on a large scale, considered to be high-quality fabrics that are incomparable in terms of beauty. Since the early Middle Ages, these fabrics were brought by merchants to the entire East, from China to the ancient Movarunnahr, to all the countries through which the Great Silk Road passed and gained fame. Fabric production was connected with the life of the people based on crafts and its historical destiny. We know that fabrics woven from cotton thread and these fabrics are widely used in sewing inner and light clothes. In addition, it consists of geometric shapes, i.e. circles, rhombuses, straight and curved lines. Due to the weaving process of Abr fabrics, the luster of unformed colors in tanda yarn is important, it is a quality that determines the originality of the fabrics, not their defect. Nevertheless, it can be known from the name of the patterns on abr fabrics that the masters based their image on something specific.       Climate conditions, customs, lifestyle are reflected in Uzbek national clothes. Especially in recent years, many people understand that national costumes are a part of national culture. We can preserve our traditions and values ​​through clothes. Dressing culture is a part of national culture and values. In the conditions of the development of clothes based on individual orders, the process of cutting lined and additional fabrics is done on a chalk basis, and outerwear is cut by a single method. The process of making a garment begins with the laying of gauze, then it is cut, shaped, and the details of the garment are attached. There are several stages of preparation for harvesting the gas before the harvesting process. In developing the model and designing the details of its construction, not only dimensions, but also additions are made to the artistic and decorative processing and the silhouette, the way the clothes fit loosely on the body. For a given model, all attachments are very important and fit into the desired surface of the item. During construction development, in addition to the above allowances and seam allowances, an allowance is also given for the gas entrance and for shaping one or another section of the detail. Designing garment details and creating a technical project of garment details taking into account the gasification feature leads to the avoidance of additional seam allowances during the sewing process.

Literature analysis. Pattern placement on fabrics, particularly national or traditional fabrics, plays a crucial role in the textile industry. It involves the positioning and arrangement of designs, motifs, and symbols on the fabric in a way that maximizes aesthetic appeal, ensures minimal waste, and aligns with cultural significance. National fabrics, which are often handcrafted or produced using traditional techniques, have unique properties and intricacies that require specific attention when applying patterns. This analysis explores the key aspects of implementing pattern placement on national fabrics and highlights how researchers have approached this topic in recent scientific literature. In modern textile manufacturing, technical factors such as fabric type, weaving method, and fabric elasticity all play a significant role in pattern placement. The research by Zhang & Xie (2019) explores how technological advancements in CAD (Computer-Aided Design) have transformed the process of pattern placement. These systems allow designers to experiment with and simulate various patterns, ensuring that the designs fit within the physical limits of the fabric and optimize material use [5]. Optimization of Fabric Use: A key challenge in national fabric production is minimizing fabric wastage during pattern placement. Gupta et al. (2015) discuss how pattern placement strategies such as “nested” layouts, where patterns are placed in a way that reduces unused space, are commonly used in the apparel industry. These strategies are equally applicable to national fabrics where waste minimization is crucial, particularly given that many traditional fabrics are expensive and labor-intensive to produce [6].

In addition to technical and cultural considerations, the economic and environmental impact of pattern placement on national fabrics is another area of focus. Rao & Rao (2013) investigate the economic aspects of fabric production, including how effective pattern placement can lead to cost savings by optimizing material usage. The efficient placement of patterns not only improves the cost-effectiveness of production but also helps reduce the environmental footprint by lowering the consumption of raw materials [7].

Materials and methods. Nowadays, after ironing the front piece including the chest, the adip edges are cut flat. These wastes cannot be normalized because they enter the useful surface of the samples. In addition, the increase in gas consumption is caused by the wrong choice of equipment (which creates a gas wave during the sewing process). Gas consumption in the form of inter-stage waste occurs in the process of the installation of andases. The layout of the templates is sent to the bed along with the gauze. This process also increases gas consumption due to cutting the end of the bed and adding to the gas softness. After the quilting is done, there are still pieces of gauze that cannot be used in the garment production process [8].

Measuring is an important operation in the process of developing custom-made clothes. In this process, it is necessary to apply additional welding charges that increase gas consumption. Currently, these tasks are due to the fact that the work of cutters is not well organized and construction methods are not well developed. It can be considered that the prospects of gas consumption savings are used in the construction and modeling of clothes. It goes through a number of processes that increase the consumption of gas until it becomes a ready-made garment:

1.  Chalking (inter-standard waste);
2. Laying (for the softness of the gas, in cutting the end of the gas, small gas expenses);
3. Processing (cutting of detail cuts, matching of clothing details to each other).

The actual consumption of gas for clothes is due to the useful consumption of gas and the consumption of gas for production:

S_I – fabric consumption surface on clothing, cm²;

S_L – pattern surface, sm²;

S_V.M – Surface of waste between patterns,  cm²;

S_P.N – Fabric consumption surface during the laying process, cm²;

S_O.K.M – Surface of fabric pieces, cm².

In the process of laying gas on a bare floor, gas consumption is reduced, but due to one location and small details, inter-stage waste increases quickly. If the cutting is from the factory gas, the actual gas cost of the garment is added to the scraps from the end of the gas - the production gas cost. This gas consumption indicates a reserve for saving gas during the whole sawing process.

Placement of clothing details in the location taking into account the construction and type of clothing, the gas structure used, the size of the inter-pattern residues in the location, and the location of seams in the technical conditions for the execution of pattern placement rules have been considered. Placement is the main task, and it is to find ways of more rational placement of templates that ensure the minimum size of inter-template waste while observing the technical conditions of templates. The location of all the details of the sewing item is made according to the patterns prepared in the experimental workshop. During placement, templates are drawn using chalk or a simple pencil based on the following conditions:

- lines of standards should be clear, well visible, not more than 0.2 cm in chalk and 0.1 cm in pencil;

- the inner side of the template lines in the location should match the outline of the templates;

- the size between the main cuts of the detail that differs by 0.1 cm from the standard cuts (shoulder cuts, shoulder cuts, sleeve slopes, collar return and rise, neck hem) is less than 0.2 sm it is necessary to ensure that it does not.

In the experimental workshop, the placement of patterns is done by hand by a highly qualified placement team. In order to increase labor productivity and reduce inter-standard waste in the implementation of the experimental placement of standards, it is necessary to have a set of standards for each group of completeness and all dimensions.          On both sides of each pattern, the size, trueness, garment fullness group, allowable size are indicated and the possible deviation lines of the direction of the body thread in compliance with the technical conditions. must be shown. Placement of experimental standards is generally performed on a special table with a flat non-slip surface with colored lines drawn every 2-4 cm along the length and every 0.5 cm across, fixed to the edge of the table. By using this table, workers performing placement are freed from such tasks as drawing the placement frame, measuring deviations when placing templates.

The main factors affecting the experimental location are: the amount of the set of standards in the location; gas laying method; the width of the gauze, the type of pattern and its location on the garment; use different methods of combining clothing sizes in the layout; the number of small details in clothes.  Laying of the layout in the "right-to-right" laying method is the laying of the laying of the layout, in which two or more sets are placed. In pattern placement, right-side-down quilting is used for construction patterns with odd-even details, odd-even symmetric details, and for cutting a piece of gusset fit for a single garment. When cutting our national fabrics, their patterns and flowers are taken into account, and they are cut according to the styles of the shirts. We must also say that cutting these fabrics requires more labor than other fabrics. Because the patterns on them should be cut without cutting or breaking. Otherwise, we may not be able to see the expected fashion dress and not get the result we thought.

In conclusion, the implementation of pattern placement on national fabrics is a complex process that requires a careful balance of cultural, technical, and economic considerations. The traditional designs that adorn national fabrics are not merely decorative; they carry significant cultural and historical value, making the process of pattern placement not only a technical task but also an act of preserving heritage.

These technologies allow for more precise, efficient, and sustainable production by optimizing fabric usage, minimizing waste, and enhancing the overall design process. However, while technological advancements have greatly improved the efficiency of pattern placement, it is crucial to ensure that the cultural integrity of national fabrics is maintained. The research highlights the importance of developing standardized methods for pattern placement, which could be particularly valuable in mass production environments where both cost-efficiency and quality are paramount.

References:

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