MARKETING RESEARCH DURING DESIGN ADAPTIVE CLOTHING FOR WOMEN WITH LIMITED MOBILITY

АННОТАЦИЯ

В данной статье освещены результаты научных исследований, проводимых с целью создания одежды, обеспечивающей комфорт женщинам с ограниченными двигательными возможностями, а также изучена статистика маломобильных слоев населения. Подчеркнута актуальность производства одежды, обеспечивающей комфорт в процессе эксплуатации для части населения с ограниченными двигательными возможностями.

Определены цели и задачи разработки адаптационной одежды для маломобильных групп населения и выбран объект исследования. Были проведены интервью и анкетирование среди женщин «Инклюзивного общества» и общества «Мехрибонлик» города Ташкента и Ташкентской области с целью выявления, анализа и проведения социологического исследования преимуществ и недостатков существующей одежды для населения с двигательными ограничениями.

В нем приняли участие 100 респондентов в возрасте от 17 до 35 лет. Для устранения проблем маломобильных групп населения рекомендован комплект одежды, состоящий из накидки-куртки и брюк комплексного решения.

ABSTRACT

The article presents the results of scientific research aimed at designing clothing to provide comfort for women with limited mobility, with movement capabilities assessed. Statistics  of  people with  limited mobility were studied.  The relevance of production of clothes  providing comfort in the process of exploitation for the part of the population with limited physical capabilities was high-lighted.

The objectives and tasks for producing adaptive clothing for individuals with limited mobility were specified, and the research object was identified.In order to identify the advantage and disadvantages  in the clothing of individuals with mobility limitations, and to conduct analysis and sociological research, interviews and questionnaire surveys were conducted among women in Tashkent city and Tashkent region, organized by the "Inclusive Society" and "Mercy" organizations. A total of 100 respondents aged 17 to 35 participated. To address the issues faced by individuals with mobility limitations, a comprehensive solution was recommended, including a clothing set consisting of a cape-jacket and trousers.

Ключевые слова: люди с инвалидностью, одежда, дизайн, ткань, люди с ограниченными двигательными возможностями, жакет, комфорт

Keywords: people with disabilities, cloth, design, fabric, people with limited mobility, jacket, comfort.

There is no doubt that clothing and attire are crucial, not only for protecting individuals from the negative impacts of the surrounding environment but also for providing support in social and physical interactions with the environment. Evaluating the significance of clothing for individuals, as well as gauging to what extent it contributes to creating and maintaining physical and psychological comfort for individuals, can be quite challenging[1].

One of the indicators of the development level of modern society worldwide is the attitude towards children, the disabled, and the elderly who have been neglected. The emergence of physical disabilities has its main reasons in the wide-scale wars of the first and second world wars[2].

In addition, it is necessary to emphasize the widespread deterioration of the ecological situation as one of the main factors contributing to the increasing incidence of diseases leading to disabilities, along with various natural disasters[3].

There are numerous challenges in enhancing the social and personal capabilities of people with disabilities.. To achieve positive adaptation, individuals with disabilities require psychological comfort. Apart from their physical and mental condition, the appearance of individuals with mobility limitations may lead to psychological challenges such as insecurity. Therefore, it is essential to address these psychological risks by providing them with clothing that helps mitigate such concerns[4].

The use of clothing designed for specific body types by people with reduced mobility leads to limitations in their ability to independently perform vital functions[5].

Indeed, it is worth noting that currently, individuals with mobility limitations often do not have access to clothing and attire specifically tailored to their needs, while the clothing available in stores does not adequately address the physiological needs of these members of our society[6].

It is evident from local and foreign experiences in designing clothing and attire for individuals with disabilities [7-8] that conducting marketing research among these individuals is essential. For this purpose, exploring the official websites of manufacturers, specialized online stores, visual evaluation of adaptive product samples, participation in specialized seminars and exhibitions, and engaging with experts and direct users in the field of adaptive clothing design are crucial. This approach helps in understanding the requirements for clothing and gathering relevant information for further development.

Individuals with mobility limitations perceive themselves as integral parts of society, with their clothing playing a significant role in enhancing their sense of dignity and aesthetic appeal based on social and aesthetic requirements. Clothing designed for individuals with disabilities allows them to express their artistic visions and align with fashion trends [9].

The requirements for clothing and materials intended for people with reduced mobility differ in their characteristics from the requirements for traditional clothing [10].

The fabric used for clothes of people with limited mobility should meet hygienic, ergonomic and operational requirements, while the construction of the designed clothes should also provide comfort. [11].

Many researchers have explored the issue of designing clothing for individuals with mobility limitations who experience pathological changes. In this, the task of creating adaptive clothes for people with limited mobility, suitable for their figure, was taken as a goal[12-14].

When developing adaptive clothing for individuals with mobility limitations, attention must first be paid to the characteristics of the materials selected. Using materials prepared from natural fibers ensures that the clothing meets the hygienic and ergonomic requirements for individuals with mobility limitations [15].

In addition to physical comfort, it is crucial not to overlook the psychological, emotional, and aesthetic aspects when selecting clothing for individuals with mobility limitations. Since its primary rehabilitation task is to enable independent movement and reduce differences between individuals in terms of mobility, considering these aspects helps enhance their sense of comfort, thus improving the quality of life for individuals in this category [16].

The analysis of the data collected indicates that the prevalence of disability is primarily observed among middle-aged and older groups, specifically individuals aged 20-30 and above. Information suggests that spinal cord injuries and occupational injuries contribute to the prevalence of disabilities among individuals of working age (20 to 59 years old) [17-18].

Based on the information provided above, research activities have been initiated to partially investigate the cognitive and motor capabilities of individuals with disabilities, who may partially move independently and use wheelchairs. The first and second groups of individuals with disabilities, who partially move independently and use wheelchairs, respectively, are the focus of the research. For this purpose, 100 disabled women, members of the "Inclusive Society" and "Mercy" disabled organizations in Tashkent city, were selected as research subjects, and a questionnaire consisting of 29 questions was conducted among them.

The 100 participants in the survey were divided into age groups as follows: 40 participants aged 20-30, 10 participants aged 30-40, 20 participants aged 40-50, and 30 participants aged 50 and above. Since the majority of the women with mobility limitations were aged 20 to 30, aged 20 to 30 were selected as the target group for the adapted clothing design project. The opinions of their close relatives were also taken into account in terms of dressing, undressing, and additional tasks. The results of the research are presented in diagrams 1-

Out of the 100 women with mobility limitations surveyed, 40 of them are homemakers, 20 are engaged in studying at higher education institutions, and 40 are actively involved in various professions.

Figure 1. Clothing sizes for women with reduced mobility

Out of the respondents, 50 individuals are aged 52 and above, 30 individuals are aged below 50, 6 individuals are aged 46, another 6 individuals are aged 44, and the remaining 8 individuals are aged 42. It was found that the clothing design project for the 52 and above age group was deemed acceptable by the majority of women with mobility limitations surveyed.

Figure 2. Requirements for shoulder clothes of women with limited mobility

The 50 respondents indicated a preference for tunics, 30 preferred t-shirts, 16 preferred suits, and 4 preferred shirts as their preferred clothing from the range of available options (2-image).From the responses, it can be inferred that the reason for individuals with mobility limitations to continually choose tunics from their wardrobe assortment is due to the convenience they offer, while other types of clothing may present difficulties.

Figure 3. Respondents' demand for clothing assortment

All women in their wardrobes have blouses, jackets, coats, and 25 women have raincoats. As for the bottom wear, 30 women have wide-legged pants, 16 women have long skirts, 4 women have short skirts, and 25 women have requested split pants for ease of use (image -3).

Figure 4. Inconveniences in shoulder clothes

When asked about the discomforts in their winter clothing, 50 respondents mentioned the inconvenience of long, bulky coats, 30 mentioned the discomfort of unlined jackets or cardigans, and 20 mentioned the discomfort caused by the heaviness of winter clothing ( image- 4).

The discomforts in bottom wear, particularly skirts, were found to hinder the movement and cause difficulty in maneuvering the wheelchair. The splitting and bunching of skirts and pants during dressing and undressing processes were identified as contributing factors to this difficulty. The survey results revealed that unlined winter clothing, winter clothing with linings, and bottom wear with no elastic waistbands or drawstrings pose challenges during dressing.  Women with mobility limitations find the presence of closures in the front part of clothing, such as trapeze-shaped jackets, to be particularly advantageous as they provide convenience in dressing, undressing, and during wear.

To ensure comfort in bottom wear, the following recommendations were made: wide-legged pants, the presence of  velcro straps and zipper closures, and the elastic waistband of trousers.

Respondents were asked about which types of closures in clothing they found comfortable. The responses indicated that 26 women preferred buttons, 40 women favored zipper closures, 24% preferred Velcro closures, and 10 women found snap closures to be convenient.

Regarding the question about preferred colors for clothing recommendations, 20 respondents chose dark colors, 40 preferred warm tones, and the remaining 40 respondents favored cool colors. A palette of colors produced by the Pantone company was presented to the respondents, and the following color codes were accepted: 1895, 148, 155, 376, 212, 249, 2706, 2707, 317, 332, 722.

When respondents were asked about their preferences for fabrics, 50 participants preferred natural and blended fabrics, while the other 50 participants favored knit fabrics.

The body morphology of 100 women, assessed for physical mobility based on the results of the conducted questionnaire survey, was examined and analyzed. It was found that 80 of them had consistent variations in their body shape. A model was selected for clothing design based on these repeated flaws among the 80 women. Using the main measurements derived from the model (158-104-112), the basic construction of the recommended clothing was established. Adjustments were made according to the "Muller and Son" method to compensate for asymmetry observed in the mobility-assessed model, with allowances made for the left and right sides of the body. Sketches of a jacket and trousers for the mobility-assessed model were developed, and their technical sketches are presented in Figures 5 and 6. A cape-jacket model sample was created based on respondents' opinions and suggestions to enhance ease of movement in clothing.

Figure 5. Technical drawing of a cape-jacket

Figure 6. Technical drawing of trousers

For women with mobility capabilities, a clothing set consisting of a cape-jacket and trouser was designed. Due to the gathered folds on the chest and waist areas of the cape-jacket, as well as the asymmetry of the body, an asymmetrical-trapezoidal silhouette was chosen. The cape-jacket was developed from the draped suit method for various events. The length of the cape-jacket is longer on the left side due to the deformation of the body. There are slits on the lower edge of the front side of the cape-jacket. The insertion of a small pocket in the middle of the lower edge of the jacket compensates for the defect of a single back vent.

To prevent interference with the movement of the wheelchair during the dressing process, the length of the jacket is designed to be just below the knee. The sleeve mobility is ensured by gathering the fabric at the shoulder and adding a gusset to the underarm area. The closure of the cape-jacket is a single-breasted style, fastened with four button loops. The neckline of the cape-jacket is in the form of a shawl collar, which is connected with a hook button for closure.

The trousers has a straight silhouette and is constructed using the draped suit method. To facilitate the dressing and undressing process of the trouser, it is equipped with a zipper closure starting from the side seam and ending with a zipper tab, and the waistband of the skirt is fastened with six buttons in a diagonal direction from the waist to the zipper tab. For the trouser's waistband to adapt to the wearer's waist circumference, elastic bands are attached to the waistband's center back, and button loops with two or four buttons are placed on both sides of the waistband.

Based on the results of the conducted research, it can be concluded that, using the data obtained from the survey questionnaires, preliminary information has been developed for the design of clothing tailored to women with mobility impairments. According to this, for the first and second groups of women who move with the help of a wheelchair, aged 20 to 30, with a 52-inch bust size, it is recommended to use a jacket with an open neckline, equipped with elastic waistbands, zipper closures, and a loose fit blouse that is comfortable to put on and take off, using a natural and artificial fabric blend method for an optimal fit.

Upon analyzing the results of the survey conducted among the respondents, sketches of a clothing ensemble tailored to women with mobility impairments were developed, taking into account the constructive and technological elements to address the challenges. The details in the cape-jacket and trouser ensemble were optimized to ensure convenience during dressing, wearing, and use.

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