STUDY OF DYNAMIC ANTHROPOMETRY FOR MAKING CLOTHES FOR VARIOUS PURPOSES

ABSTRACT

The article presents information about the change in anthropometric signs depending on the various movements of the body performed in the daily activities of the person, as well as in production, in a special environment that the designer is necessary to correctly determine the allowances for free-fitting in various types of clothing.

АННОТАЦИЯ

В статье изложены сведения об изменении антропометрических признаков в зависимости от разных движений тела, совершаемых в повседневной деятельности человека, а также на производстве, в специальной среде которые необходимы конструктору для правильного определения припусков на свободное облегание в одежде различных видов.

Keywords: clothing, typical figures, clothes, joint, change dimensions, anthropometric studies.

Ключевые слова: одежда, типичные фигуры, одежда, сустав, изменение изменений, антропометрические исследования.

INDRODUCTION

To improve the well-being of our people before light industry, such tasks are set as an increase in the production of high-quality, good, competitive and relatively inexpensive products. When developing an assortment of light industry products, gender and age, profession, state of physical development and other consumer features are necessary. To this end, the national composition of the population is clarified in economic areas and their administrative subsections. These data is necessary to identify the peculiarities of the physical development of the population, as well as accounting for national traditions in the area of costume. One of the mains is the grouping of consumers of products by sex and age.

MAIN BODY

When constructing an anthropometric standard in order to design clothing, signs that characterize the established types of dimensions corresponding to the average values calculated by one of the usual static methods used, namely by the method of regression analysis. Standards of typical figures are derived based on the data obtained by measuring the human figure in a static (fixed) posture, that is, dimensional signs are removed from the static position of the body. Such results cannot fully satisfy the requirements of the designer, manufacturing patterns of clothing parts intended for a moving person, and not for a mannequin with a constant fixed "pose". [2]

Due to the fact that the shapes and dimensions of the parts of the body are changed, and the provisions differing from the main static anthropometric posture, as you like, it is advisable to investigate changes (increasing) of the size of the body size (length and girth) with the extreme positions of the head, body and limbs. Thanks to this study, the designer will be able to use not only the average values of the necessary measuring signs, but also the values of their maximum increase obtained by measuring these signs in extreme positions.

However, the results achieved in determining these so-called dynamic signs are only an approximate nature, that is, their application in the design of the patterns will depend on the specific type of clothing having a specific function. For example, for a male tightly adjacent output costume, you can not use the same allowances for free folkry as for a working overalls, and so on.

When studying dynamic features, it became necessary to solve the following problems:

1. selection of dynamic features necessary for the design of patterns and the determination of the method of their measurement;
2. determination of the method of statistical processing of dynamic features;

establishment of directions for the use of the results obtained.

Dynamic measurement data were obtained by means of a special anthropometric survey. On the basis of anthropological studies, a methodology for determining the so-called dynamic features was developed and agreed upon. The measurements were based on the basic anthropometric methodology, tested by all countries of the former members of the Commonwealth of Economic Mutual Assistance (CEMA), in surveys of the adult population.[1]

The basic static posture is characterized as follows: the measured stands straight, maintaining natural posture, body weight is distributed evenly on both limbs; heels brought together, socks apart (about 15 cm), head - in the position of the orbital-ear horizontal, hands freely lowered along the body. The features measured in this pose are called statistical and are indicated by Xs with the corresponding serial number. Signs measured in other positions of the body or limbs, that is, in a dynamic posture, and called dynamic, are indicated by Xd. [4]

For maximum accuracy, all measurements in each country were carried out by one experienced worker. Values of all sizes were recorded in measuring forms with an accuracy of 1 mm.

Currently, 19 different forms of movements have been established (Fig. 1): inhalation, pulling the body and head back, pulling the arms back, tilting the body at an angle of 45 ° to the floor with the hands down, pulling the arms forward and to the sides, squatting, etc., for which body sizes are set and areas that have maximum deviations from their values in statics are determined. These include: the width and the length of the back, the length of the trunk on the side of the beacon, to the waist, the distance from the waist to the side of the fold, the width of the chest, the height of the shoulder is oblique, the length of the hip, etc. These sizes and body shape are taken into account when determining dimensions and Configuration of clothing details. [7]

Below in table. 1 shows the values of dynamic growth to those parts of the body, which change when performing certain movements. The greatest value of the growth has the width of the back when the torso is tilted forward with lowered hands down. This value is 10.5 cm. The hand, bent in the elbow joint at a right angle, changes its sizes by 7.6 cm, the foot bent at a right angle in the hip and knee joints, changes its dimensions by 8 cm. When tilting the body forward the waist length of the back increases by 6.4 cm, and the seat height is 4.1 cm.

I                              II                        III                      IV                   V                      VI                             VII                   

VIII                                IX                                     X                                  XI                         XII

                      XIII              XIV                  XV                           XVI                       XVII                XVIII       XIX                        

Figure 1. Standard forms of movements

Table 1

Dynamic growth values for body sections

The values of dynamic signs of the design for the rational design of special clothing are especially important.

The design of special clothing is developed taking into account the movements of workers presented to this type of clothing. At this stage, a change in a person is determined depending on the nature of movements during operation. Analysis of movements of working in various industries showed that when performing the main (characteristic) movements, the values of the leading dimensional signs of the figure of the person are significantly changed. [3]

Based on the dynamic increase in measurements in the design of products, a total allowance for free-fitting and its distribution according to the main structural sections is set. At the same time, the properties of the selected materials are taken into account: stiffness, resource ability, mass, which are largely determined by the ergonomic properties of overalls. Improving these properties of overalls in recent years is paid great attention. Naturally, any overalls to some extent limits the movement of a person. However, in any case, it should not have undesirable effects on the human body, since this is due to a decrease in the level of performance. Clothing in this turn undergo a number of changes: moving, slides relative to the human body (presses on his body). Therefore, it is necessary to create such a design of overalls, which would have given the opportunity to exercise a variety of movements with the greatest sweep with minimal cost of physical energy.

The degree of ergonomic perfection is estimated at the following integrated indicators: anthropometric, hygienic, physiological, psychophysiological, psychological.

To assess the ergonomic properties of overalls in the Central Research Institute of the Sewing Industry, anthropodynamic stands are developed and used for various types of products, a microchamber and various medical devices, etc. In anthropodynamic stands, comprehensive studies of different types of overalls (jackets, trousers, overalls) and hand protection equipment (mittens, gloves) are held. [3]

Upon receipt of ergonomic indicators that do not correspond to the indicators of the best samples, changes are made in the design. An example of this can be the development of overalls for welders. Such clothes are known to be manufactured from materials of high surface density, thickness and stiffness to ensure protection of sparks and splashes of sprayed metal. As it turned out in the study, the developed classic design of the internal sleeves exposes the hand of a welder of a significant load (over 5 H). To identify the possibility of reducing this load, studies were conducted by jackets made from materials of various surface density, rigidity and design of the sleeves.

Conclusion

As a result of these studies, it was found that the smallest forces on the hand of the welder provides a jacket made of soft tissue (type of phenylon-3n) with a sleeve, the design of which corresponds to the main working position of the hand of the working arm (the articular angle between the shoulder and forearm is 120 °). [3]

Based on the above mentioned, it is possible to conclude that anthropometric studies of the human figure in the dynamics are of great importance in the human life in the human environment-clothing system.

References:

1. L.P. Shershneva, T.P. Pirʼzeva, L.V. Larkina. Osnovы prikladnoy antropologii i biomexaniki. M., “Forum-Infra-m” 2004.
2. Kurshakova Y.S., Zenkevich P.I., Dunayevskaya T.N. i dr. Razmernaya tipologiya naseleniya stran-chlenov SEV. M., “Legkaya industriya” 1974
3. Delb R.A., Afanaseva R.F., Chubarova Z.S. Gigiyena odejdi. M., “Legkaya industriya” 1991
4. 4.      T.N. Dunayevskaya, Ye.B. Koblyakova, G.S. Ivleva, R.D. Ievleva. Razmernaya tipologiya naseleniya s osnovami anatomii i morfologii. M., “Masterstvo”, Izdatelskiy sentr “Akademiya” 2001
5. Tursunova, Z. N., & Kartseva, I. V. (2019). Study of the development of anthropometric data of the population in order to correctly design the workplace. Scientific and technical journal BETI," Development of science and technology", Special issue, (5), 279-285.
6. Nurillayevna, T. Z., Barotovich, O. S., Djurayevna, T. G., Muxiddinovna, T. N., & Abduformonovna, A. F. (2021). Research of Foot Sizes of Younger School Children for the Purpose of Identification of Static Deformations. Annals of the Romanian Society for Cell Biology, 4723-4741.
7. Абдуллаева, Г. Ш., & Турсунова, З. Н. (2014). Изучение динамической антропометрии и возможности её применения для изготовления одежды различного назначения. Молодой ученый, (2), 95-98.
8. TOSHEVA, N. (2019). INFORMATION FROM THE HISTORY OF UZBEK NATIONAL WOMEN'S CLOTHES. EURASIAN JOURNAL OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY, 1(2).
9. Абдуллаева, Г. Ш., & Турсунова, З. Н. ИССЛЕДОВАНИЯ РАЗМЕРОВ СТОП ДЕТЕЙ МЛАДШЕГО ШКОЛЬНОГО ВОЗРАСТА С ЦЕЛЬЮ ВЫЯВЛЕНИЯ СТАТИЧЕСКИХ ДЕФОРМАЦИЙ. Международный научно-практический электронный журнал «МОЯ ПРОФЕССИОНАЛЬНАЯ КАРЬЕРА». Выпуск № 32 (том 1)(январь, 2022). Дата выхода в свет: 31.01. 2022., 102.
10. Абдуллаева, Г. Ш., Шарипова, С. И., & Турсунова, З. Н. (2014). Изучение особенностей проектирования подростковой одежды. Молодой ученый, (8), 120-122.
11. Турсунова, З. Н., & Камолова, Г. Ш. (2017). Изучение типологии населения стран мира. Молодой ученый, (14), 139-142.
12. Шарипова, С. И. (2015). Вариационный ряд антропометрических признаков студенток СППО города Бухары (Узбекистан). Молодой ученый, (7), 219-225.
13. Шарипова, С. И. ГИГИЕНИЧЕСКИЕ СВОЙСТВА МАТЕРИАЛОВ ДЛЯ ОДЕЖДЫ ПОДРОСТКОВ, ЖИВУЩИХ В СРЕДНЕЙ КЛИМАТИЧЕСКОЙ ЗОНЕ. УЧЁНЫЙ XXI ВЕКА, 34.
14. Турсунова, З. Н., Саидова, Х. Х., & Саидова, А. С. (2015). Изучение строения детских фигур с целью проектирования школьной формы для девочек младшего школьного возраста с учётом основных морфологических признаков, характеризующих размеры и форму тела. Молодой ученый, (2), 211-216.