SEMANTIC CLASSIFICATION AND STRUCTURE OF COSTUME DESIGN VOCABULARY

ABSTRACT

The vocabulary of costume design forms a distinctive subsystem of professional language, reflecting a complex relationship between art, technology, and culture. This study explores the semantic and structural organization of costume design terminology through the lens of cognitive semantics and linguistic classification. It identifies the major thematic and functional patterns that underlie the lexicon, highlighting how linguistic creativity interacts with technical precision. Moreover, it analyzes productive word-formation mechanisms, metaphorical and metonymic processes, synonymy, polysemy, and cross-cultural variation. The article also discusses how new terms emerge under the influence of digital innovation, sustainability, and globalization. Findings demonstrate that costume design terminology is not only a linguistic reflection of creative practice but also an evolving cognitive system that shapes the professional worldview of designers and educators alike.

АННОТАЦИЯ

Лексика дизайна костюма образует самобытную подсистему профессионального языка, отражая сложную взаимосвязь искусства, технологий и культуры. В данном исследовании рассматривается семантическая и структурная организация терминологии дизайна костюма через призму когнитивной семантики и лингвистической классификации. Выявляются основные тематические и функциональные закономерности, лежащие в основе лексики, и освещается взаимодействие языкового творчества с технической точностью. Кроме того, анализируются продуктивные механизмы словообразования, метафорические и метонимические процессы, синонимия, полисемия и межкультурная вариативность. В статье также рассматривается, как появляются новые термины под влиянием цифровых инноваций, устойчивого развития и глобализации. Результаты показывают, что терминология дизайна костюма является не только языковым отражением творческой практики, но и развивающейся когнитивной системой, формирующей профессиональное мировоззрение дизайнеров и педагогов.

Keywords: costume design, terminology, semantics, metaphor, word formation, cognitive linguistics, cultural identity, fashion vocabulary.

Ключевые слова: дизайн костюма, терминология, семантика, метафора, словообразование, когнитивная лингвистика, культурная идентичность, модная лексика.

The lexical system of costume design terminology is a complex and dynamic phenomenon that reflects the interaction between linguistic, cognitive, cultural, and aesthetic factors. The semantics of this professional vocabulary shows not only how designers describe their work but also how societies conceptualize appearance, identity, and creativity. As in other fields of art-related terminology, meaning formation in costume design is multidimensional, combining technical precision with artistic subjectivity [1]. The study of such terminology reveals how fashion discourse mirrors social change, cultural heritage, and technological advancement. Fashion, being an ever-evolving art form, requires a flexible linguistic system that adapts to innovation while maintaining a link to tradition [2].

According to semantic field theory developed by Trier and later expanded by Lehrer, vocabulary items are organized into conceptual networks based on shared meaning [7]. Within costume design, several interrelated semantic fields emerge naturally: construction and technique, materials and texture, shape and silhouette, color and aesthetic perception, as well as cultural and historical terminology. The first of these relates to garment-making processes, including words such as cut, seam, pattern, drape, stitch, pleat, lining, hem, and dart. These terms reflect functional and technological meanings, many of which originate from tailoring and textile production [3]. The second field concerns materials and textures, involving words like silk, chiffon, velvet, satin, wool, and texture, which describe both physical properties and visual or tactile impressions. Metaphorical uses such as liquid fabric or airy dress demonstrate how sensory experience becomes linguistic expression [5].

Shape and silhouette terms such as A-line, hourglass, straight-cut, and structured link costume design to geometry and architecture, expressing the balance between form and proportion [6]. Color and aesthetic terms, including monochrome, pastel, shade, tone, and vibrant, convey not only visual harmony but also psychological and cultural associations [13]. Cultural and historical vocabulary further enriches the lexicon, as seen in terms like Renaissance gown, kimono sleeve, Victorian collar, and boho style, which encode social memory and cultural identity [9]. Each of these fields functions as part of a larger semantic network, where words are connected through synonymy, antonymy, and hyponymy. For instance, hemline and border share conceptual proximity but differ in technical nuance, illustrating the system’s internal hierarchy.

From a morphological perspective, the structure of costume design terminology demonstrates a wide variety of word-formation mechanisms. Derivation through affixation produces forms such as fit – fitting, style – stylishness, and drape – drapery. Compounding is another highly productive process, leading to expressions like ready-to-wear line, double-breasted jacket, and high-waisted skirt. Conversion enables category shifts without morphological change, as in to model – a model or to tailor – a tailor [10]. Borrowing, particularly from French and Italian (couture, corset, taffeta, crinoline, atelier), reflects the historical dominance of European fashion terminology [3]. Hybrid terms such as eco-fashion, street-couture, and techwear illustrate the influence of globalization and the blending of linguistic traditions [14]. These structural processes contribute to the richness and adaptability of modern fashion language.

Metaphor and metonymy, as cognitive mechanisms, play a fundamental role in the development of costume design vocabulary. As Lakoff and Johnson noted, metaphor shapes human thought by mapping one conceptual domain onto another [6]. In fashion discourse, metaphors drawn from nature (butterfly sleeve, petal skirt, shell top), architecture (sculptural dress, boxy jacket), and emotion (dramatic cut, romantic gown, bold look) reflect how abstract aesthetic qualities are expressed through tangible imagery [11]. Metonymy operates through association and contextual proximity: a Chanel meaning a Chanel-designed dress, the runway for a fashion show, or denim referring to a whole style category. These devices not only enrich professional vocabulary but also facilitate concise and expressive communication among designers and critics [12].

Another important characteristic of this lexicon is its semantic variability. Synonymy reflects stylistic and contextual diversity, as in the pair outfit and ensemble, which differ in register and nuance. Polysemy arises frequently, since terms like cut may refer to a tailoring technique, a silhouette, or even a visual effect. Regional variation also plays a role: jumper/sweater and trousers/pants represent geographical differences, though global media increasingly blurs such distinctions [4]. This fluidity makes fashion language both creative and adaptive, mirroring the diversity of global design practices.

Costume design terminology is also deeply rooted in culture. Each language encodes its own fashion concepts that express local traditions, social roles, and aesthetic values. Uzbek traditional clothing, for example, includes culturally rich terms such as atlas, adras, do‘ppi, and chapan, which carry both material and symbolic significance. Translating these words into English often requires descriptive equivalents – silk ikat fabric, embroidered skullcap, quilted robe – as there are no direct counterparts [9]. Such lexical gaps, known as “cultural lacunae,” occur when two languages conceptualize the world differently [9]. Globalization, however, has facilitated linguistic hybridization, leading to terms like kimono-style dress, ethno-chic, and boho embroidery, which merge traditional heritage with modern stylistic codes [10]. These examples highlight how fashion vocabulary functions as a site of cultural negotiation and exchange.

In the modern era, digital technology and environmental awareness are transforming both design practice and its linguistic expression. The emergence of terms like 3D modeling, digital tailoring, slow fashion, upcycling, and virtual fitting room reflects new professional realities [15]. These terms convey not only technological advancement but also ethical and ecological awareness, marking a shift from purely aesthetic values to sustainable and moral considerations. As Thurlow emphasizes, fashion language today constructs social meaning and moral identity as much as it defines beauty [10]. Consequently, costume design terminology continues to expand in response to societal change, absorbing new conceptual frameworks from technology, culture, and philosophy.

In conclusion, the vocabulary of costume design represents a dynamic linguistic system shaped by historical evolution, cognitive mechanisms, and cultural diversity. It demonstrates how language mediates between material creation and abstract thought, allowing designers to articulate both technical detail and artistic emotion. Through metaphor, metonymy, and borrowing, the lexicon continues to grow, adapting to global influences and technological progress. The study of its semantics and structure reveals that fashion language is not merely descriptive but conceptual, serving as a reflection of identity, innovation, and human creativity. As linguistic and cultural change accelerate in the digital age, the study of costume design terminology remains crucial for understanding how words shape the art of fashion and the imagination of society.

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