PERIOD MAKEUP LOOKS: A WALK-THROUGH BEAUTY HISTORY

ABSTRACT

During the late 1800s, the western cosmetics industry began to grow due to a rise in “visual self-awareness,” a shift in the perception of color cosmetics, and improvements in the safety of products. Prior to the 19^th century, limitations in lighting technology and access to reflective devices stifled people’s ability to regularly perceive their appearance.  From scientific history, articles and facts have been observed, how makeup has changed trends for decades, on fashion and women’s style. In the article we will analyze how art has influenced fashion for centuries on women.

АННОТАЦИЯ

В конце 1800-х годов западная косметическая индустрия начала расти благодаря росту “визуального самосознания”, изменению восприятия цветной косметики и повышению безопасности продуктов. До 19 века ограничения в технологии освещения и доступе к светоотражающим устройствам сдерживали способность людей регулярно воспринимать свой внешний вид. Из научной истории, статей и фактов было замечено, как макияж десятилетиями менял тенденции в моде и женском стиле. В статье мы проанализируем, как искусство веками влияло на моду на женщин.

Keywords: make-up, makeup history, fashion, beauty, glamour.

Ключевые слова: макияж, история макияжа, мода, красота, гламур.

THE VICTORIAN ERA- 1800s

During the mid 1800s a period of time that would later be referred to as the “Victorian Era” women were still very much thought of as less than men, much like delicate flowers in need of shielding from the world. While wealthy ladies were known for their pale complexion, a more tanned skin was considered synonymous of poverty, associated with those forced to do labor unshielded from the harsh rays of sunlight. This type of elitism was also translated onto the cosmetic here. Take Helena Rubinstein's cosmetic shop, for example. An exclusive rear entrance was put in place to provide wealthy customers a chance to enter the store away from prying eyes. Makeup was for women of ill repute, those pertaining to the bold world of Vaudevile/Burlesque performances and common prostitution. Therefore, wealthy ladies who incorporated makeup into their pampered existence were frowned upon. Luckily, things started to take a drastic turn in the beginning of the 20^th century, with women now strategically placing themselves on the front lines of the women’s rights movement, urging for political change.

FLAPPERS: THE ROARING 1920s.  During the Great War, society was faced with one of the deadliest conflicts in human history. Claiming over 17 million lives, many women were left without their significant other, now forced to attract new suiters in time of tremendous peril. Luckily, humanity was able to pick itself up, and rebel through a time now known as “the roaring twenties,” during which Flapper Girls emerged as sparkling phoenixes from the ashes of war. Society’s newly found freedom came as a breath of fresh air, and people were more than happy to welcome the new trends. These included more liberties for women, as well as more daring ways of expression. Gone were the Victorian buttoned-up collars and floor-length petticoats. This was the era of short fringe skirts and those with a roaring new attitude to match it! A great example of the changing fashions was that embodied by Coco Chanel, whose boyish couture house transformed the landscape of fashion. As far as makeup went, women now showcased bronzed, glowing skin in an attempt to radiate California charm, but also adding Chanel’s signature red pout and heavily lined eyes, as opposed to the old-fashioned Victorian ultra-pale complexion.

THE VAMP LOOK.  Synonymous to “sensuality”, the term “vamp” was used to describe the most sexually savvy of creatures, much to the contrast of Chanel's tomboy stereotype. This temptress relished in her own mystery, taking pleasure in hiding away behind a pale complexion, dark eyes, and daring smile. All you needed was a heavily powered face to mimic that of a porcelain doll and a highly defined pout painted in deep, rich colors for extra drama. Another aspect of the “vamp” look was the obsession with the Egyptian cat eye, achieved through deep kohl liner, dark eye shadow and carefully arched eyebrows. This look later inspired today’s gothic movement, as well as the “heroin chic” look that became extremely popular in the early 90s, where pale skin and dark eye once again took a forefront within the cosmetic sphere.

MARLENE 1930s DIETRICH. Marlene Dietrich's “don't mess with me” attitude took the 1930s by storm. Her now iconic “femme look embraced androgynous glamour to fatale” provoke an overall appearance of independence and self-confidence. This look emphasized a woman’s bone structure through meticulous contouring, topped off with highly arched, ultra-thin eyebrows, fake lashes and a rich colored lip. [1]

BACK 1940s BROWS. With even food been rationed in times of political hardship, makeup was in scarce supply, turning women’s focus on hair through carefully groomed styles. These glossy and meticulously waved looks were easy to achieve with the limited supplies they had, such hair rollers and styling lotions. Eyebrows assumed a more natural line and a fuller form, and arches were emphasized by using an eyebrow pencil. Attention was still drawn to the lips through rich, dark colors and a well-shaped bow to the upper lip. Eyes would carry a heavy line at the crease, with beige and brown tones to adorn the lids.

OLD HOLLYWOOD GLAMOUR. 1950s Color motion pictures gave birth to some of the biggest sex symbols of the century. Women such as Audrey Hepburn, Sophia Loren, Marilyn Monroe and Elizabeth Taylor took old Hollywood glamour to a whole new level! Their bombshell look was characterized a flirty cat eye and a strong dominant brow drawn in the same color as their hair. FAUX NATUREL: 1970s The 70s was the era of the “Al American Girl.” Long luscious locks framed women’s tanned complexion and ultra-white teeth, and the use of shimmery pastels and minimal eye makeup created the extremely popular “naked” look. [2]

MADONNA’S MATERIAL GIRL. 1980s the 1980s were all about big hair and bold makeup. Women wore eccentric eyeshadow in vivid shades of fuchsia, green, blue and everything in between, paired with mascara to match (sometimes even in bright shades of blue!). Lips were not immune to this love for excess, and were often outlined in the same bright colors. Contouring was also radical, and bright blushes were key.

 FASHION & RUNWAY MAKEUP LOOKS. As a fashion makeup artist, you will work closely with photographers, models and designers, to help bring specific artistic creations to life within the fast-paced environment of the catwalk, photoshoots, and other fashion- related projects. It is important you learn to adapt to these scenarios, and that you understand how makeup should cater to the specific circumstances of each individual project. For example, how to compensate for intense artificial lighting to avoid models looking pale or washed-out.

CREATING LOOKS FIT FOR THE RUNWAY. First of all, it is paramount that you understand your client's vision as the makeup you create will contribute to the overall look of the project. You will have a certain amount of time to plan your look for the runway, depending on the size and complexity of the production. You may be asked to work with lighting engineers, production assistants, models, stylists and designers, all to help create the overall look your client aims to achieve. These “prep days” may include dress rehearsals, makeup and hair tryouts, as well as meetings about the venue.

HD MAKEUP: CREATING PERFECT SKIN FOR STUDIO, FILM AND TELEVISION. The makeup industry is now being saturated with products labelled as “HD,” a marketing ploy to bring in sales. In reality, creating the HD look is more about the right technique, rather than spending big on HD labels. Digital photography and high-definition video, film and television demand a revolutionized approach to beauty application. This shift has made makeup artists change their techniques to suit the more vivid way we see images of actors, models, performance artists and brides on our laptops, smartphones, in cinemas and on our television screens.[3]

CREATIVE MAKEUP LOOKS FOR CATALOGUES, MAGAZINES, AND HIGH FASHION PUBLICATIONS. When working on an editorial shoot, you will be part of a team, and you will often also be provided with the previously mentioned “pre-shooting” day or days, where you will work closely with photographers and models to test out how your proposed look translates into real life, and on camera. As for the shoot itself, again, flexibility is key. These demanding projects may take place indoors or outdoors, and it's important you are able to adjust your makeup techniques accordingly. Timing is also of the essence, as you will also be working on a strict schedule. For outdoor shoots you will have to take into consideration external factors such as changing light and weather conditions. Usually, natural lighting creates a bluish skin tone, that can be countered with rosier colors. Indoor shoots may also be challenging. For example, you may be forced to deal with less-than-optimal artificial lighting, sweaty models, etc. Also, remember that intense lighting highlights imperfections, which may require more makeup than you initially anticipated. It also creates a yellowish skin tone that you will need to counteract with cooler-themed foundations and colors. Creative makeup may also be used for editorial shoots. As an extension of “glamour” makeup, these are very popular for theatre, burlesque and high fashion productions, and often extend to more than just the model’s face.

USE OF STUDS, STENCILS, GLITTER AND OTHER MATERIALS. These can be a fun way to add a little something extra to your beauty look. However, it is important to always use materials that are created especially for makeup purposes, such as face-painting. Paint found at a regular craft store (such as acrylics) are dangerous and should never be used on the skin. Before applying the stencil, make sure all the necessary sanitary measures have been taken. For example, never dip brushed in dirty water, and make sure to mist sponges with alcohol in between faces.

References:

1. Araeva L.A. Word-building type as a semantic microsystem: suffixal substantives: (based on the Russian sub-dialects): abstract dissertation of Doctor of Philology: 10.02.01 – Kemerovo, 1994. – P. 43. [in Russian].
2. Classic Beauty: The History of Make-Up by Gabriela Hernandez.
3. Ginzburg E.L. Word-building and syntax. – Moscow, 1979. – P. 264. [in Russian].
4. Kovaleva T.V. Derivatives with -ator/-tor in derivative system of the Russian language. Dissertation of the candidate of philological sciences: 10.02.01. – Kemerovo, 2004. [in Russian].
5. Vinogradov V.V. Selected works. Lexicography and lexicology]. – Moscow, 1977. – P. 312. [in Russian].
6. Glamour daze / [URL] https://glamourdaze.com/history-of-makeup/1930s
7. Glamour daze / [URL]. https://glamourdaze.com/1950s-fashion