FORMULATION OF PACKAGING MATERIALS FOR OUTER CLOTHING

ABSTRACT

Taking into account the climatic conditions of Uzbekistan, the formation and research of a material package for men's outerwear that meets the functional and operational requirements is an urgent issue.

A new range of clothing has been developed and researched using textile materials to form the menswear package. When forming the material package, their physical and mechanical properties were taken into account.

Types of heating layers for outerwear, their thickness, surface density, suitability for a certain temperature, advantages and disadvantages, as well as air permeability and heat storage properties of package samples were studied at the "SENTEX.UZ" certification laboratory at the Tashkent Textile and Light Industry Institute. As a heating layer for outerwear, a package sample was prepared from mineral and basalt fiber heating layer materials obtained from natural mineral products produced in Uzbekistan and used in the national economy, and its physical and mechanical parameters were compared with existing package samples. The results of the research show that the basalt fiber heating layer has achieved a higher result than the existing heating layers in terms of lightness, shape stability, and heat retention. In order to form an outerwear package, it is recommended to scrutinize the properties of each heating material and choose package materials considering the climatic conditions of Uzbekistan.

АННОТАЦИЯ

Учитывая климатические условия Узбекистана, формирование и исследование пакета материалов верхней одежды, отвечающей функциональным и эксплуатационным требованиям для мужчин, является актуальной задачей.

Был разработан и исследован новый ассортимент одежды с использованием текстильных материалов для формирования пакета мужской одежды. При формировании пакета материалов учитывались их физико-механические свойства.

Виды утепляющих слоев для верхней одежды, их толщина, поверхностная плотность, пригодность к определенной температуре, преимущества и недостатки, а также воздухопроницаемость и теплоудержающие свойства образцов пакета изучены в сертификационной лаборатории «СENTEX.UZ» Ташкентского Института Текстильной и Легкой Промышленности. В качестве утепляющего слоя для верхней одежды был приготовлен образец пакета из минеральных и базальтовых волокнистых материалов, полученных из природных минеральных продуктов производимых в Узбекистане и используемых в народном хозяйстве. Проведено сравнение физико-механических показателей с существующими образцами пакета. Результаты исследований показывают, что утеплительный слой из базальтового волокна достиг более высокого результата по легкости, стабильности формы и сохранению тепла чем существующие утеплительные слои. Для создания пакета верхней одежды рекомендуется тщательно проанализировать свойства каждого утеплительного материала и подобрать пакет материалов с учетом климатических условий Узбекистана.

Keywords: sintepon, hollofiber, tinsuleit, slimtex, wool, feather, batting, cotton, sherstin, sherstepon, mineral cotton, basalt cotton, metoaramid fiber, heating layer, construction, technology, gassing.

Ключевые слова: синтепон, холлофайбер, тинсулейт, слимтекс, шерсть, перо, ватин, хлопок, шерстин, шерстепон, минеральная вата, базальтовая вата, метоарамидное волокно, утеплительный слой, конструкция, технология, материал.

Introduction

Decree No. PF-5989 dated May 5, 2020 of the President of the Republic of Uzbekistan "On urgent measures to support the textile and sewing-knitting industry" and "On measures to promote the further development of light industry and the production of finished products" 2019 In order to ensure the implementation of the decision No. PQ-4453 of September 16, as well as to further improve the textile and sewing-knitting industry, an important task is assigned to the light industry and its largest branch - sewing production. The production of high-quality sewing products is directly related to the in-depth study of the technologies of fabric preparation, cutting, sewing and finishing, as well as the properties of the raw materials used [1-2].

A lot of scientific research work has been done on the production and research of the product using the heating layers in the outerwear package.

A new range of clothing has been developed and researched using a new range of textile materials in the formation of outerwear packages [3-4]. In this case, a new fiber-containing material was recommended as an avral gas for the package material.

In the scientific research work [5], the comfort feature in the underwear space in the outerwear package was investigated. When forming the material package, their physical and mechanical properties were taken into account.

In the scientific research conducted on the optimization of the construction of the heat-retaining package of clothing with the help of bulk materials and the assessment of the shape stability of the multi-layered package of clothing, the dependence of the air permeability and heat-retaining properties of the lining, lining and heating layer materials on the fiber content of the material was studied [6-7-8].

In the scientific research mentioned above, the selection of the package material for the outerwear, the properties of the lining, lining, heating material for the package, taking into account the climatic conditions of Uzbekistan, were not researched.

Taking into account the climatic conditions of Uzbekistan, the formation and research of a material package for outerwear that meets the functional and operational requirements is an urgent issue.

Material and methods. It is known that the climate of Uzbekistan is changeable, and outerwear used in the winter season should meet consumer requirements. In most parts of our country, the cold season lasts from October to March, and in this climate, comfortable and warm outerwear that meets functional and ergonomic requirements is recommended. In formulating an outerwear package, it is mainly required to be heat-retaining and at the same time light-weight. For this, various heating layers are used in production enterprises [9].

It is known that outerwear consists of aura, a lining and a warming layer and forms a clothing package. The main function of heat-retaining materials is to prevent the penetration of cold from the external environment and maintain the body's thermal balance. This process occurs due to the air between the fibers of the material package [10].

Natural, synthetic and mixed fiber heating layers are mainly used in the preparation of outerwear [11].

• Natural - unprocessed or minimally processed natural origin, wool, cotton and other fibers;
• Synthetic - fiber from polyester, synthetic heat-retaining materials and other artificial products of oil processing;
• Combined - has mixed compositions including natural and synthetic fibers [12].

Natural fiber materials are superior to synthetic fibers in terms of heat-retaining material indicators, but they do not retain their shape, so it is not recommended to use them for sewing outerwear. In addition, as a result of the influence of biological factors (increase of moth larvae), product quality decreases. The heating material made of synthetic fibers is light, warm, durable, keeps its shape well and is suitable for seasonal clothes [13].

Natural heat-retaining materials have been used for centuries, only as a result of the development of technology, the cleaning and processing of wool and cotton has been improved. From processing, the properties of natural materials are improved and they inevitably become more expensive. Due to the difficulty of keeping natural fiber thermal insulation materials in hot weather (moth larvae increase in hot weather), the demand for natural thermal insulation materials is low in regions not above freezing -30⁰ C. But on a cold day with a temperature of -30⁰ C, the demand for natural heating layer materials increases. Bird, goose or duck, swan feathers are used as heat-retaining material for winter clothes [14].

The results of the conducted analysis show that [15], the degree of cold resistance of heat-retaining materials is defined as follows:

• 60 gr is recommended for air temperature up to 0⁰ C;
• 80-100 gr is recommended for air temperature up to -10⁰C;
• 100-150 gr — designed for air temperature of 15-18⁰C;
• High level heating layer of 15⁰-30⁰C gr —-50⁰C.

As a result of the analysis, it became known that scientific research work was carried out on the formation of outerwear package using coarse wool and methoaramid fibers to increase the heat transfer and fire protection properties [16-17].

Research results. Based on the above considerations, the task of studying the materials of the heating layer used for outerwear and determining the physical and mechanical properties of the material packages was determined. At the same time, the properties of mineral cotton, which is one of the natural raw materials as a heating layer, produced in Uzbekistan (suitable and cheap for the climatic conditions of Uzbekistan), were studied and the task of analysis was set in comparison with the indicators of existing heating layer package samples.

Mineral cotton, basalt cotton and methoaramid fiber are considered 100% natural products and are mainly used in the construction industry for heating rooms, as well as protection from heat, noise, water and fire. In addition, these materials are also used in the national economy for the purpose of protection against electricity [18-19]. 

In the preparation of the material package, the fabric "Dyuspo" was used for the lining, and the polyester fiber fabric was used for the lining. As a research object, the types of heating layer materials used in the garment industry were selected, and experimental research works were carried out based on existing methods in the "CENTEX.UZ" laboratory at the Tashkent Textile and Light Industry Institute [20].

The weight of heat-retaining materials, the degree of resistance to cold weather, the advantages and disadvantages of the material are presented in table 1.

Table 1.

Physico-mechanical parameters of samples of packages with a heating layer

Analysis of research results. The results of air permeability and heat storage characteristics are presented in the form of a diagram     (Figures 2-3).

Figure 1. Thickness of package samples, mm

Figure 2.  Surface density of package samples, g/m²

Figure 3.  Air permeability of package samples, dm3/cm2 s

Figure 4.  Heat retention index of package samples, %

The results of the research show that in terms of package surface density, the heating layer sample with basalt cotton is 350.0 g/m² and mineral cotton is 800.5 g/m², sherstepon is 375 g/m² and sherstin is 390.0 g/m², wool is 600.0 g/m². m² and cotton 820.6 g/m², batting 379.0 g/m² and sintepon lining 200.6 g/m², par 582.6 g/m² and methoaramid fiber 300.0 g/m², slimtex 200.0 g/m² m², sintepon 296.3 g/m² and holofiber 470.0 g/m². It can be seen that the surface density of natural fiber heat-retaining materials is 1.0-1.5 times higher than that of synthetic heat-retaining materials, and it was found that the basalt cotton heating layer sample is lighter in terms of surface density than other natural and synthetic heating layer samples.

According to the heat preservation properties of the samples of the heating layer package, mineral wool showed 82% and basalt fiber 78%, par 63% and holofiber 61%, sherstin 55% and sherstepon 50%. It was found that basalt and mineral wool have 1.5 times higher heat retention rate than synthetic heating layers, and 0.5 times higher than other natural heating layer samples. Metoaramid fiber has a heat retention rate of 54%, but this product has not entered our domestic markets.

The main goal of the research work is to form package materials for outerwear and to choose and recommend a heating layer suitable for the climatic conditions of Uzbekistan. Taking this into account, the specific characteristics of natural and synthetic fiber heat-retaining materials were studied based on the information provided in the literature [21-22] (Table 2).

Table 2.

Indicators of natural and synthetic heat-retaining materials

As can be seen from the table, the natural heat-retaining material has a high level of heat retention, excellent air permeability, compression properties and a high price. Synthetic heat-retaining materials have a high level of heat retention, durability, volume recovery rate, and an average index in terms of compression properties, air permeability, and price.

The conducted analyzes show (Table 2) that the listed properties apply to existing heating layer materials used in the garment industry, and in terms of price, comfort, durability, heat retention, interaction with moisture, mineral and basalt obtained from natural mineral products and used in the national economy fiber heating layer materials have given positive results.

Conclusions. Based on the results of the conducted research, it can be concluded that the physical and mechanical properties of existing heating layer materials used for outerwear and mineral and basalt fiber materials used in the construction industry were studied and analyzed.

Mineral and basalt fiber materials obtained from local mineral resources have superior results compared to existing heating layer materials, such as price, comfort, durability, heat retention, interaction with moisture. The heat retention index was 1.5 times higher than synthetic heating layers, and 0.5 times higher than other natural material samples.

Based on the obtained results, it is recommended to use mineral and basalt fiber materials made from local mineral resources to form outerwear package and prepare outerwear package materials taking into account the climatic conditions of Uzbekistan. At the next stage, the task of developing the optimal options for the materials used for the outerwear package was set.

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